Diving the Poor Knights Islands

Many people have no idea that New Zealand is a great place to dive. They haven’t heard of Jacques Cousteau’s claim that this is one of the top 10 dive spots in the world! The special interest here is that it is not tropical, but subtropical diving. The Poor Knights are New Zealand's oldest island reserve, protected by an encompassing marine reserve.

Water temperature is around 18-22°C, but thanks to the 7mm wetsuits a shivering dive can be avoided. Actually the water is warmer than it should be, thanks to a warm current from Northern Australia (probably the one Nemo’s dad was floating on), bringing with it some exotic fish larvae. Extraordinary are the giant schools of fish (Snapper, Maomao and many more), the stingrays that come to breed in summer, colourful nudibranchs and the large variety of rare (and often endemic) species who live there: sharks, Kingfish, John Dory, Lord Howe Coralfish, Long-finned Boarfish, prolific wall life, dolphins, Manta rays, seals, giant salps, kelp forests, crayfish, seahorses, turtles, crabs, sunfish...as well as natural arches, caves, tunnels and vertical underwater cliffs.

You can even dive in the largest underwater cave in the world (Rikoriko). Visibility ranges from 10 m-40 m (the plankton bloom in spring brings fantastic fish life, better visibility towards the end of summer through to winter). Dive companies are very professional and the trip itself is an experience even for non divers, there are over 60 dive sites that will keep you more than occupied. You can also dive the Waikato and Tui wrecks at Tutukaka.

The Poor Knights islands are also extraordinary on land. Once inhabited by the local Ngatiwai (“people of the sea”) tribe, they were never resettled after a massive slaughter by enemies, and declared tapu (sacred/prohibited) thereafter. The islands are one of the few places where Tuataras (similar in shape to the Galapagos lizards), Wetas (the heaviest recorded insect ever was a pregnant female Weta at 71 grams), Kaka parrots (relatives of the Kea), Little Blue Penguins, 2m wingspan Australasian Gannets, Buller's Shearwaters, Grey Ternlets, Bellbirds and many more rare species can survive. Beautiful Pohutukawa trees cover the main island (allegedly they are covered with seabird skeletons who nested underneath and got tangled up). The volcanic islands lost contact to the mainland millions of years ago, allowing for a slightly different evolution of the species. Boats are resolutely prohibited to land on shore to prevent rats and predators from jumping over.

Also here in Northland the sunken Rainbow Warrior off Matauri Bay and soon the Canterbury in the Bay of Islands invite you to discover their secrets. New Zealand is suitable for divers of all levels. On Cousteau’s website it says: “There were so many wonders to show that two films were produced.”

There are some very professional dive operators with fast boats to take you for a two dive excursion, with fitting dive sites and groups for every experience level.

The relaxing cruise out to the Poor Knights Islands will take you out through Tutukaka harbour towards breath taking scenery, you’ll pass through giant sea arches (no, not just the one hole in the rock...), circle around some of the islands, sightsee while hearing about Maori history, with a chance to see wildlife like dolphins, whales, seals or even killer whales, plunging gannets and their colonies and other birds on the way.

Snorkel or swim in sheltered bays in crystal clear blue water amongst thousands of curious fish in the marine reserve. As they stick to the colourful surface and cliffs anyway you won’t regret that you are not diving.